Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Bangas and Mash :)

Or ... how to get to Dhaka - the long way...

After our little altercation in the Laundromat, we were relieved to get out of Medan. Our final destination was Dhaka, the Bangladeshi capital, but we’d booked tickets to Kolkata because it was cheaper and had planned to go overland. Our flight actually stopped in Kolkata first, then flew to Dhaka - so if we’d stayed on the plane we could have gone directly there. D’oh!

We were a bit worried because we were totally unprepared for our arrival – we had no information or money and didn’t know the best way to go – stay overnight in Kolkata or go directly there? We both usually do our research beforehand, but in this case we’d both been slack/too busy in the lead-up and hadn’t even got any maps or guidebooks to help us. So when we arrived to no money facilities at the airport and a dodgy-looking taxi driver who wanted to put us in his van and drive us to the border, we were pretty reluctant to do so, especially as it seemed very expensive (and we hate getting ripped off!), we’d arrived later than expected, his van looked like a piece of crap and we didn’t know if we could get a bus over the border that night. But in the end, we decided to trust the driver to not kidnap us and get us to the border.

It was strange to arrive at night because we didn’t really get a good idea of what Kolkata was like, except for the lit-up billboards and traffic around us. Interestingly, but to our detriment, there was a Hindu festival happening to honour Shiva, and involved pilgrims walking on foot for 50km to Shiva’s temple. They were walking along the road carrying metal containers of water on the end of poles. Not the easiest thing to carry for 50 bloody kilometres! But it gave the journey a nice carnival atmosphere. Unfortunately it also made it verrrryyyy slow, and by the time we got to the border it was too late, the border was closed, and all the bus companies had shut up shop for the night. So we had to stay in (what we thought was) an overpriced hotel nearby and cross the border the next morning. All in all, we started off our journey feeling like everyone was trying to rip us off!

We crossed the border the next morning and jumped on the first bus to Dhaka. We shared our journey with a lovely man called Hossein, who befriended us and helped us out with directions to our friends’ place in Dhaka. He was so helpful and friendly, and even invited us for a meal at his family home – a common thing for Bangladeshis to do, as we soon learned – which we accepted. He even accompanied us to our friends’ house, and then made his way home from there, which we later found out was quite far, so we were very appreciative of his help. The bus journey was massive, taking the whole day, especially because the traffic was so shite when we reached Dhaka city – we sat in it for over an hour, as well as in the line-up for the ferry which we used to get across a huge river before reaching the city; it was amazing to get out and stand on the top of the ferry and look out over the water; the biggest river I’ve ever seen. It was like a huge muddy ocean!

The scenery of rural Dhaka was beautiful. LOTS of water: rivers, creeks, ponds, and very green. Fishermen in canoes, working with nets. Brick kilns with huge chimneys scattered around the countryside like archaeological digs. People slowly riding along the road on bicycles, hitching a ride on a rickshaw, or waiting on the roadside for the next bus. Small towns with busy local markets. Rice padis, cows (no water buffaloes) and goats. Crops of cassava and jute. Interestingly, jute is prepared by soaking it in huge ponds; after stripping the stalks from their sheaths, it is arranged in tee pee-style bundles to dry before being processed into products like rope and furniture. It was a great introduction to the country, and in the end we were glad we’d taken the overland route.

No comments:

Post a Comment